Karen Millen OBE on starting her fashion label: ‘If I knew what I do now, I would have never started’
2024-09-12
Embracing the Future: Karen Millen's Inspiring Journey Through the Evolving Fashion Landscape
As London Fashion Week kicks off, the fashion industry eagerly anticipates the arrival of some familiar faces from the British fashion scene. Among them is Karen Millen OBE, a renowned designer who has left an indelible mark on the industry. Millen, best known for her classic womenswear collections that have been sported by the likes of Hollywood star Emily Blunt and The Princess of Wales, is set to show her support for young British designers at the 'THIS IS ICON' runway show, alongside industry greats such as Scottish designer Pam Hogg.
Embracing the Evolving Fashion Landscape: Karen Millen's Insights and Advice for Aspiring Designers
Navigating the Challenges of the Fashion Industry
Millen's journey in the fashion industry has been nothing short of remarkable. She founded her eponymous label in 1981 at the tender age of 19, starting with a modest loan of just £100. As she reflects on the fashion landscape today, Millen acknowledges that the challenges facing young creatives have only intensified. "If I knew what I know now, we would never have started at the beginning – because you're in it for the long term," she says.Millen emphasizes the importance of unwavering commitment and resilience in the face of the industry's demands. "Whatever industry you go into, you've got to be 100% committed, because it becomes your life for many years. I think it's important not to think that you are going to be a success overnight, because you know you have to learn and be resilient," she reflects.
The Importance of Authenticity and Finding Your Unique Selling Point
For Millen, authenticity is the key to success in the fashion industry. "Stay true to who you are, and don't be afraid to ask questions – because you don't know it all," she advises. Millen believes that finding one's unique selling point is crucial. "What's your purpose, what's your point of difference?" she asks, encouraging young designers to explore their distinct voice and vision.
The Evolving Landscape of Fashion Retail and Production
Millen's own experience with the sale of her brand in 2004 has provided her with valuable insights into the changing nature of the fashion industry. "It was a very difficult time, and I almost just wanted it all to go away," she recalls. "We had the opportunity of selling the company, but I didn't really look into it as well as I should have done."Upon selling the brand, Millen found herself unable to use her own name in any further endeavors, a lesson she hopes young designers can learn from. "Not KM, not Karen – I couldn't use any part of my name, which we'd overlooked at the time," she explains.Millen has also observed the shift in the way fashion brands operate, with more reliance on outsourced production. "Now, everything goes to a factory, so you have little control and it loses its identity a little bit, because it becomes part of a big machine that other brands are doing – it just all overlaps," she notes.
The Importance of Patience and Organic Growth
Reflecting on her own journey, Millen emphasizes the value of patience and organic growth. "It was very slow growth, very organic, but that enabled us to get things in the right place and put the infrastructure in," she says.Millen cautions against the instant gratification mindset that has taken hold in the digital age. "Sometimes I think, because life is so instant now with social media, people just expect things to happen instantly or want to see results quickly, but you've got to be more patient," she advises."Because if you're going to be there for the long term, you need to go slowly. You can disappear as quickly as you appeared, if you're not ready to take that leap," Millen warns.
Returning to Her Roots: Millen's Final Collection with the Brand
After a 20-year hiatus, Millen has returned to her namesake label, designing a capsule collection that will launch in October. "It's my final collection with the brand," she says. Reflecting on the changes she has observed, Millen notes the shift in the brand's operations, with more reliance on outsourced production."It's been interesting to see the change in the way they work. We were so much more hands on because we did everything in house," Millen explains. "Now, everything goes to a factory, so you have little control and it loses its identity a little bit, because it becomes part of a big machine that other brands are doing – it just all overlaps."
Supporting Emerging Talent: Millen's Involvement with the 'THIS IS ICON' Runway Show
Despite the challenges she has faced, Millen remains committed to supporting the next generation of fashion designers. Her involvement with the 'THIS IS ICON' runway show, in collaboration with the NSPCC, is a testament to her desire to nurture emerging talent."It's their first time being on stage, looking at their collections, surrounded by celebrities – it must be quite nerve-wracking for them," Millen acknowledges. "It is quite an intimidating industry, even for me, so it's a great opportunity to for them to collaborate and network, which I think is really healthy."Millen's presence at the event, alongside industry luminaries such as Sir Brian May, Naomie Harris, and Lord Sugar MBE, underscores her commitment to fostering a supportive and inclusive fashion community.